Almost ThereCycling, Bikes, Parts, Accessories, Clothing and More…

Selle San Marco

Women Potters Of San Marcos Tlapazola, Oaxaca

Alvin Starkman  M.A., LL.B.

 

Every Sunday Gloria awakens at 3 am, and begins preparing tejate, a frothy, tasty corn and cacao based drink, which she will offer for sale in the Tlacolula market.  A couple of hours later her sister-in-law María and Maria's daughter Luci follow suit, but in preparation for their own day of vending pre-Hispanic-style figures and masks, comals, and an assortment of other fired clay bowls, cups, plates and containers.  Sundays, the women laugh, is their day of rest, when they don't have to worry about scrounging for firewood, tending fields, lugging raw material for kneading into clay --- the lifeblood of their economic existence --- and in the case of María, looking after preparing breakfast for Luci and her older brother and getting them off to school.

 

The family of four lives in a modest yet fair sized dirt-floor compound in San Marcos Tlapazola, a Zapotec village about an hour outside of Oaxaca.  Nearby Tlacolula is known by tourists and native Oaxacans alike for the pageantry of its Sunday marketplace, its bakeries' wonderful chocolate-filled buns, the church, proximity to fields of agave and mezcal factories, and products offered for sale by the women of San Marcos.

 

Gloria, María and Luci are 40, 38 and 12 years old respectively.  While in the market, their traditional dress, consisting of brightly colored and embroidered taffeta dresses and head-dresses, easily sets them and others from nearby villages apart from the rest.  Luci confesses that she also likes wearing regular clothing. 

 

In her lifetime, only once has Gloria been to Oaxaca.  The mere thought of venturing into the big city intimidates her. 

 

Clumps of hard earth are soaked.  On a concrete floor in an almost barren dark room, María kneads the then softened mud with water and a bit of sand, while kneeling and working her magic, until a buttery smooth clay is ready to be fashioned into a vase.  With her hands raised to just about head level, she molds a cone, pounds out the inside to create a funnel, then places it on a small hard piece of plastic atop a flat stone, with a bit of sand as a buffer.  The sand enables her to spin the form into a sphere.  She uses rolls of clay to build up it up.  A piece of corn cob is used to make the outside surface even, and another piece of plastic to cast the inside.  A small round segment of hardened gourd assists in producing the desired, final exterior shape.  A strip of soft leather facilitates the creation of a smooth finish.  Then onto the next one. 

 

Gloria is sitting a few feet away, beginning to burnish a small bowl she has removed from under a cloth covering several others. She's using one of two almost golf ball sized highly polished river stones given to her by her grandmother.  She has already coated the series of bowls with a mixture of a different, much redder clay, and water, so as to create a terra cotta colored paint tone.  Once hard and dry, all that Gloria and María have produced over the course of days, is ready for baking. 

 

Some alfareros in the town of Atzompa use above-ground brick and cement ovens.  Others in San Bartolo Coyotepec and Ocotlán use below-ground brick-lined pits.  Manuel Reyes in Yanhuitlán constructed his own twin kilns out of clay brick, lengths of re-enforced steel, and mud.  But the women of San Marcos, each and every time they want to bake their clay pieces, build a makeshift enclosure at ground level, made variously of discarded bed spring, pieces of rusted through wheel barrow, bent bicycle tire rim, old sections of otherwise unusable laminated metal, and broken pieces of pottery which have not survived a prior firing. 

 

A cousin sometimes comes by in a truck to sell Gloria and María a load of twigs, branches and rotted out logs, for anywhere between 400 and 1200 pesos, depending on the load size.  Sometimes he brings by dried agave leaves, stock, and pieces from the heart or piña which have for some reason not been harvested for mezcal production.  The women themselves often gather up similar pieces of potential fuel while in the course of walking the hills outside of their village, and tie them up to both sides of their mule before heading back home. 

 

A day of baking can usually proceed smoothly if there is no rain, and any earlier precipitation has not left the wood wet; if it's not too windy; and of course if there is a sufficient supply of burnable product on hand, and not too much of the scrap metal has been rendered unusable through the beginning stages of decomposition / disintegration.

 

Typically, María is in charge of process, while Luci assists, and Gloria divides her time between doing other household chores such as cooking tortillas and being called upon when María tires or has been affected by the intense heat, or a stage in production is time-sensitive.

 

All the pottery to be baked is assembled outside, in close proximity to the area where the "oven" will be built:  a series of rustic clay pots --- an order for a client who makes and sells piñatas; three comals which were not sufficiently fired on a previous occasion;  numeral clay figures of different sizes and forms, for the Tlacolula tourist trade; and an assortment of functional pots, bowls and plates, as well as a few small spoons and tiny colanders.

 

A circular base approximately two meters in diameter is created, using preferably bed spring placed atop a couple of staggered layers of brick, since such a foundation provides for aeration.  Broken pots, old metal receptacles, roofing tile, and whatever else is close at hand creates a confining perimeter.  Small twigs and pieces of agave heart are placed underneath.  María cuts agave leaves with a machete.  With the aid of an extremely heavy, meter-and-a-half long crow bar known as a barreta, Gloria pitches in by splitting log pieces and lengths of dried agave stock.  María and Luci build a flammable base atop the spring.  With gingerly proficiency, María both directs and assists in placement of the pieces.  From her years of experience she knows how to best achieve even firing and avoid breakage. 

 

More of each class of burnable, as well as dried tumbleweed, is carefully placed on top of the clay pieces.  Hot ash from making tortillas is shoveled into crevices to facilitate incineration, while a couple of matches set to a few special added twigs, a natural kindling, assures a quick light.  A fairly strong wind fuels an initially fledgling fire, and within seconds the blaze is raging and smoke is billowing.  More branches and died agave parts are tossed on, with the upmost care since multi-directional wind tunnels have been created.  Gloria must fully cover her head to ensure that spark does not ignite her hair.  Each takes a turn extricating herself from the swirling, seemingly out-of-control flames. Finally, sheets of rusted metal are strategically placed alongside, and atop, to control the entry of air being drawn to the inner portions of the enclosure. 

 

The morning's work completed, flames are left to dissipate, while Gloria, María and Luci sit, have a drink of fresh fruit juice, and rest.  After about 45 minutes baking will have been completed.  The area will be left to cool, while Gloria and María return to their simple work room, add a bit of water to their drying clay, and begin kneading before once again beginning production of another diverse lot.  Later in the day the oven will be disassembled, pottery removed with hopefully a minimal amount of breakage, ash dusted off.   The women of San Marcos Tlapazola will then wrap and box their merchandise in preparation for their next trip to market.

 

Most Sundays María can be found sitting on the ground with Luci, with an array of rustic clay figures and masks, as well as a selection of traditional Zapotec cooking and serving utensils displayed in front of them, on one side of an outside aisle in the Tlacolula marketplace.  Gloria will be directly across from them, pouring cups of tejate to thirsty passersby. 

About the Author

Alvin Starkman has a Masters in anthropology and a law degree. Now a resident of Oaxaca, Alvin writes, tours travelers to the sights --- including excursions to visit San Marcos Tlapazola --- and owns Casa Machaya Oaxaca Bed & Breakfast ( http://www.oaxacadream.com ), a unique Oaxaca bed and breakfast experience providing Oaxaca accommodations which combine the comfort and service of Oaxaca hotels with the personal touch of quaint country inn style lodging.

Account limit of 2197 requests per hour exceeded.

Vespro A San Marco $229 Vespro A San Marco

San Marco In Hamburg - Motets (Cordes) $12.49 San Marco In Hamburg - Motets (Cordes)

Messa Per San Marco 1766 $169 Messa Per San Marco 1766

San Marco™ Cyrillic Roman $25.99 Download the San Marco™ Cyrillic Roman font for Mac or Windows in OpenType, TrueType or PostScript format.

San Marco™ Roman $29 Download the San Marco™ Roman font for Mac or Windows in OpenType, TrueType or PostScript format.

MASSERIA SAN MARCO $243.99 NESTLED ON THE SAVAGE AND HARSH LANDSCAPE OF BARISCOUNTRYSIDES, BEETWEEN OAKS, OLIVE GROVES AND VINEYARDS,RISES MASSERIA SAN MARCO. MASSERIA SAN MARCO IS AN IDEALPLACE TO SPEND ONES HOLIDAY IN A TOTALLY RELAXINGATMOSPHERE IN HARMONY WITH NATURE AND TRADITIONS OF THEPAST. MASSERIA SAN MARCO HAS GOT 7 COMFORTABLE ROOMSFULLY FURNISHED AND 18 BEDPLACES IN ALL. IT HAS ALSO ALARGE GARDEN AND A SWIMMING POOL. MASSERIA SAN MARCOGIVES THE POSSIBILITY OF RIDING AND GOING FOR INTERESTINGWALKS.

Piazza San Marco $14.38 Piazza San Marco is a dynamic open space organically connected to the buildings which frame it. It shows how much is lost if the ensemble is divided into the individual structures of Doges’ Palace, Basilica of San Marco, Campanile and so on, each ‘marvell

Fra Angelico: San Marco, Florence $5.37 Fra Angelico's magnificent 15th Century frescoes at San Marco monastery in Florence are among the greatest achievements in the history of art....

HOTEL SAN MARCO $201.23 ON THE OUTSKIRTS OF SIENA, VERY CLOSED TO THE FOUR LINESROAD, JUST OUT THE EXIT SIENA OVEST, IS LOCATED THE NEWHOTEL SAN MARCO, THE NEW TYPE OF HOSPITALITY MISSING INSIENA.HOTEL SAN MARCO WILL OFFER WITH HIS ADVANCEDSTRUCTURES THERMIC PROOF AND SOUND PROOF, ESSENTIAL BUTFUNCTIONAL FURNISHING, A STAY IN THE NAME OF QUIET ANDQUALITY.OUR GUEST, EITHER BUSINESS PEOPLE OR ART LOVERSTOURISTS, WILL FIND ON THE PREMISES SPOTS FOR PARKINGSURROUNDED BY GREENS AND FLOWERBEDS.AT MAIN ENTRANCE YOUWILL FIND A LARGE HALL FOR THE RECEPTION AND TV ROOM WHILEAT THE SIDE OF THE RECEPTION THE BREAKFAST ROOM, WHERE YOUWILL ENJOY OUR RICH BREAKFAST BUFFET WITH BREADS ANDPASTRIES MADE FRESH EVERYDAY ON THE PREMISES AND A BAR THATWILL STAY OPEN ALL DAY LONG.THE HOTEL SAN MARCO, INAUGURATED IN 2004, IS SITUATED INCOLONNA SAN MARCO, 1 KM FROM THE HISTORICAL CENTRE.THISSTYLISH AND FULLY AIR CONDITIONED STRUCTURE WAS PLANNED BYFAMOUS ITALIAN ARCHITECTS, REFLECTING A MINIMALIST YETMULTIFUNCTIONAL STYLE, IN ORDER TO OFFER ITS GUESTS ULTIMATECOMFORT AND RELAXATION. THE PROPERTY FEATURES 28 WELCOMINGGUESTROOMS, A SPACIOUS TV ROOM AND A BAR OPEN ALL DAY LONG... ROOM TYPES VARY, PLEASE REFER TO AVAILABILITY FORDESCRIPTION.

Royal San Marco Hotel $267.34 Royal San Marco Hotel > VCE > Calle San Marco 848 > Venice > > 30124>Location. This beachfront property is located in the San Marco neighborhood of Venice, close to St Mark's Campanile, Procuratie Vecchie, and St. Mark's Basilica. Also nearby are St. Mark's Square and Bridge of Sighs. Features. Royal San Marco Hotel has a bar/lounge. Room service is available during limited hours. Business amenities include a business center and secretarial services. Event facilities include conference rooms. The staff can arrange dry cleaning/laundry services. Additional amenities include room service during limited hours, a concierge desk, and multilingual staff. Guestrooms. Amenities featured in guestrooms include air conditioning, minibars, and televisions. Business friendly amenities include direct dial phones. Bathrooms provide bidets and hair dryers. Notifications:Additional fees and deposits may be charged by the property at time of service, check in, or check out. >The preferred airport for Royal San Marco Hotel is Venice (VCE Marco Polo) 7.8 km / 4.8 mi. Distances are calculated in a straight line from the property’s location to the point of interest or airport and may not reflect actual travel distance. Distances are displayed to the nearest 0. 1 mile and kilometre.

Hotel Colonna San Marco $309.86 Hotel Colonna San Marco > OLB > Piazzetta San Marco > Porto Rotondo > > 7020>Location. This Porto Rotondo property is close to La Marinella Beach and Liscia Ruia. Features. Hotel Colonna San Marco has a restaurant. Room service is available during limited hours. Hotel Colonna San Marco has an outdoor pool and a spa tub. Additional amenities include room service during limited hours, laundry facilities, and air conditioning in public areas. Guestrooms. Amenities featured in guestrooms include air conditioning and minibars. Business friendly amenities include desks and direct dial phones. Bathrooms provide bidets and hair dryers. Notifications:Additional fees and deposits may be charged by the property at time of service, check in, or check out. >The preferred airport for Hotel Colonna San Marco is Olbia (OLB Costa Smeralda) 14.2 km / 8.8 mi. Distances are calculated in a straight line from the property’s location to the point of interest or airport and may not reflect actual travel distance. Distances are displayed to the nearest 0. 1 mile and kilometre.

Hotel San Marco $129.39 Hotel San Marco is located in Noceto and local attractions include Parma Exhibition Center. Hotel Features. Dining options at Hotel San Marco include a restaurant and a coffee shop/caf?. The hotel serves a complimentary breakfast. Recreational amenities include a sauna and a fitness facility. This 4 star property has a business center and offers secretarial services. Wireless Internet access is available in public areas. For a surcharge, the property offers a roundtrip airport shuttle (available on request). Guest parking is complimentary. Additional property amenities include multilingual staff and express check in. Guestrooms. 112 air conditioned guestrooms at Hotel San Marco feature safes and bathrobes. All accommodations have balconies. Bathrooms feature shower/tub combinations, bidets, complimentary toiletries, and hair dryers. Wireless Internet access is available. In addition to desks, guestrooms offer direct dial phones. Televisions have satellite channels and pay movies. Guests may request in room massages and wake up calls.

San Marco $18.31 No Synopsis Available

TriSports.com Selle San Marco